Let’s Go To the Caribbean

rum point, grand cayman

Just as I was the one to introduce Mark to France, so he was the one to take me on my first visit to the Caribbean. Though Mark had been a couple of times before we met, we both decided that somewhere completely new to both of us would be more fun. So Mark did some research, and came up with a “quaint”, quiet-looking place in Grand Cayman. We bought the tickets, and away we flew!

For me (and, for everyone I imagine) the first amazing revelation about the Caribbean is the color of the water. Everyone’s seen the pictures, but in person and up-close it’s hard to believe the first time. We landed, rented a Jeep and drove to the resort, where we settled in and went to find a rum drink before we planned the next day’s activities.

Every Caribbean island seems to have its signature rum drink; in Grand Cayman, it was the Yellow Bird –Yum! And we got to know our two delightful bartenders, Mary Ann and J.R. – both locals and very friendly.

For the next three days we got in the car and drove all day, everywhere there was to go on the island. If you look at a map of Grand Cayman, it has a long, scorpion-like tail on the North side; we were staying near the tip of that. But all the activity is on the Western coast, along a stretch called seven-mile beach. So our drive time was significant – 45 minutes each way, most of which is through an island that looks like it hasn’t got a hill higher than 20 feet. We saw the turtle farm. We snorkeled at Eden Rock. We saw Hell. We ate out every day, lunch and dinner.

welcome to hell!

And, although we were reluctant to admit it, we were making ourselves miserable. The sights were less than thrilling (except for the snorkeling, which was exceptional). There was a constant wind blowing sand at us. Our villa, though very roomy, looked like it had last been decorated in the late 60’s. Worst of all, the restaurant food was very disappointing, and expensive. We were not happy campers.

Finally, we woke up on day four apathetic, with neither a plan nor the will to make one. And that’s how we discovered the secret. We had a porch, with hammocks in which to lie all day and read, stare at the water, whatever. Ten yards in front of the porch was that beautiful blue-green water. Ten yards to our east was the bar, with Yellow Birds, this board game involving pebbles, and friendly people who’d happily waste a whole day playing it with you. We’d found the secret: as long as we stayed inside that triangle – Beach, Porch, Bar – we’d have a great time. And so, we stuck to the triangle. We enjoyed ourselves so much, that we missed our flight back to Boston, because we’d forgotten what day it was. Yay! An extra day in our “Cayman Triangle”!

My husband says:

Though I’d visited the Caribbean before, this was the first time I’d been since becoming a foodie. Wow, what a disappointment. There are so many bad restaurants, and they are so expensive. Not that we haven’t had some good, even excellent, meals in the islands. But this was way before the internet and web reviews; then you had to know someone who knew the good from the bad. Unless you’re on a French island – then they’re all great.

whim plantation, st croix, usvi

These days – unless we’re visiting our great friends who live in St. Croix – we get a villa. It’s quieter and more private, and you have an entire house at your disposal: most significantly, a real kitchen. At first blush, villas look to be significantly more expensive than a hotel or resort room. But, assuming you cook, you don’t have to go out for every meal, eat disappointing food, and spend a fortune doing it. You shop at the local grocery (and I love local groceries!), maybe go catch some fish, and have a modest, authentic, tasty and inexpensive meal. When you want a snack and a drink or glass of wine, you go to your own kitchen and make it, take it back to your hammock and continue your book – This way, we’ve found, villas are basically comparable to resorts price-wise – and far more enjoyable.

tHE BLUE HOLE, bELIZE - FANTASTIC DIVING HERE!